Saturday 11 August 2012
Croatian evening
Have just had a really lovely evening. We drove up into the hills behind Dubrovnik to experience typical Croatian village life. This village called Osojmik was completely destroyed in the Serbian / Montenegro uprising and you will see a photo of me with my fingers in the bullet holes of a building. The hosts were delightful and showed us wonderful hospitality with live music, dancing and their idea of a barbecue. We started with grappa and figs, followed by home-cured bacon and tomatoes on skewers. Then pork (cooked like our hangi), salad and a sweet cake to finish. All of the food was produced on their little farm, including a very smooth red wine. A delightful balmy evening and we ate at a long table outside.Herzegovina and Sarajevo tomorrow and probably no Wi-fi.
Dubrovnik
This area was formerly under Ottoman rule and Dubrovnik is supposedly the best preserved Croatian medieval city, built in the 7th century.It is well- known for its writers, artists, musicians and has an international summer festival every year.It was devastated by an earthquake in 1667 and also badly bombed and shelled during the uprising in Serbia and Montenegro, but the beautiful historical heart is well preserved and is surrounded by the old city walls.
In Zadar, Split and Dubrovnik we have had excellent local guides to explain the history of each area and to make sure we see the most important sites. Again it must be nearly 40 degrees today, and that, together with it being Saturday and about 5 cruise ships in port has meant a very hot and crowded morning. I enjoyed our walking tour before it got too hot and I also
went up on the cable car to get a superb view over the city. However, after negotiating humpteen dozen steps in the heat I caught a local bus back to the hotel, did my washing and headed for the beach!
In Zadar, Split and Dubrovnik we have had excellent local guides to explain the history of each area and to make sure we see the most important sites. Again it must be nearly 40 degrees today, and that, together with it being Saturday and about 5 cruise ships in port has meant a very hot and crowded morning. I enjoyed our walking tour before it got too hot and I also
went up on the cable car to get a superb view over the city. However, after negotiating humpteen dozen steps in the heat I caught a local bus back to the hotel, did my washing and headed for the beach!
Friday 10 August 2012
Croatia: Split To Dubrovnik
Another early start and we took the motorway from Zadar to Split because the pretty coastal road is crowded in summer. Countryside quite dry and bleak, rocky with scrub and little stone walls where agriculture possible.
We had 3 hours in the lovely city of Split, which has the famous Diocletian Palace,dating from 4 BC,a wonderful open air market and catacombs, all of which we visited in 34 degrees!!
Split is a vibrant city with real Mediterranean spirit and a lovely atmosphere. Lots of socialist blocks of flats on the outskirts, but lovely old medieval architecture in the centre and food to die for.According to Wentz,I chose the best fish restaurant in Split called Poseidon, where I enjoyed a deliciously messy dish of scampi in a garlicky tomato sauce.
From Split we drove along the coast to Dubrovnik. It was a pretty drive but very hot and most of us snoozed off.We were bumper to bumper so it was slow, past hotels, apartments and chocka camping grounds.The beautiful beaches were mostly shingle and packed with campers, swimmers and sunbathers. A sun lover's paradise and the sea so clear and blue.We also drove down the very fertile Neretva River Valley,which is famous for its mandarin oranges and fruit. Here I met my Dalmatian stud,Otto at his fruit stall!! (see photo) It was a very fleeting romance! Arrived late at hotel and went straight down to beach for my first swim in the warm Adriatic, from where I watched the beautiful sunset. Have just eaten outside at 10pm, where I have been serenaded by 3 more romantic Dalmatians!! It is so balmy and warm.
We had 3 hours in the lovely city of Split, which has the famous Diocletian Palace,dating from 4 BC,a wonderful open air market and catacombs, all of which we visited in 34 degrees!!
Split is a vibrant city with real Mediterranean spirit and a lovely atmosphere. Lots of socialist blocks of flats on the outskirts, but lovely old medieval architecture in the centre and food to die for.According to Wentz,I chose the best fish restaurant in Split called Poseidon, where I enjoyed a deliciously messy dish of scampi in a garlicky tomato sauce.
From Split we drove along the coast to Dubrovnik. It was a pretty drive but very hot and most of us snoozed off.We were bumper to bumper so it was slow, past hotels, apartments and chocka camping grounds.The beautiful beaches were mostly shingle and packed with campers, swimmers and sunbathers. A sun lover's paradise and the sea so clear and blue.We also drove down the very fertile Neretva River Valley,which is famous for its mandarin oranges and fruit. Here I met my Dalmatian stud,Otto at his fruit stall!! (see photo) It was a very fleeting romance! Arrived late at hotel and went straight down to beach for my first swim in the warm Adriatic, from where I watched the beautiful sunset. Have just eaten outside at 10pm, where I have been serenaded by 3 more romantic Dalmatians!! It is so balmy and warm.
Thursday 9 August 2012
Slovenia & Croatia : day 1
Another hot 30+ degree day(again thank goodness for air-conditioning) and I am on my way on my 8 day Jewels of Croatia and Slovenia tour.There are 34 of us on a big air- conditioned bus. An interesting mix, mostly my age to a granny from
Wales with her two teenaged grandchildren. I'm really enjoying Kristie (see photo). She is a most attractive American from Charlottesville in Virginia and she has left her 9 & 12 year old kids at home with her husband. Wentz is our guide and Miha is our driver, both excellent and informative about both the landscape and the history.
Sadly we did not have time last night to go into Ljubljana, which I believe is a beautiful city. I found out that the only bus from Lake Bled to Zadar goes at 9pm and arrives at 3am! Could be tricky finding accommodation at 3am (??),so I think I will have one day less at Lake Bled, so that I can see Ljubljana and catch a train onto Zadar via Zagreb to join Claudia & Ralf for my sailing.
Today we visited the wonderful Postojna Caves, which was an unforgettable experience,going underground on a little train, then walking through the wonderful stalactite and stalagmite landscape.The formations were spectacular and we walked about 3 km underground. The Slovenian countryside is very pretty and green with rolling wooded hills.It is a tiny country with about 2 million people and 300,000 in Ljubljana.
Then we crossed the border onto Croatia and into three totally different landscapes. Tourism makes up at least 25% of Croatia's GDP.We had a spectacular drive along the very dry rocky sunburned coastline to Senj. The vegetation struggles to grow on the rocky soil, but the sea is clear and blue with gorgeous little coves and bays with people swimming and sunbathing.From Senj we drove inland through the province of Lica along a very windy road through pretty forested hill country up into the Gacka Valley , with supposedly the cleanest river in Europe.The coast is heavily populated, but inland is almost uninhabited and apparently good for biking and hiking. Also full of wildlife - deer, rabbits, wolves,foxes,squirrels, wild boar and even lynx.We then drove along a new inland motorway to Zadar, back on the coast through an amazing 5.7km double tunnel into the province of Dalmatia.
Zadar is a gorgeous little medieval town with beautiful Venetian architecture and a famous sea organ.It has quaint narrow little cobbled streets and is so full of history, dating back to Roman times.It was under Venetian domination for centuries,then Austro-Hungarian,and after WW1it was ruled by Italy and today it belongs to Croatia.
Wales with her two teenaged grandchildren. I'm really enjoying Kristie (see photo). She is a most attractive American from Charlottesville in Virginia and she has left her 9 & 12 year old kids at home with her husband. Wentz is our guide and Miha is our driver, both excellent and informative about both the landscape and the history.
Sadly we did not have time last night to go into Ljubljana, which I believe is a beautiful city. I found out that the only bus from Lake Bled to Zadar goes at 9pm and arrives at 3am! Could be tricky finding accommodation at 3am (??),so I think I will have one day less at Lake Bled, so that I can see Ljubljana and catch a train onto Zadar via Zagreb to join Claudia & Ralf for my sailing.
Today we visited the wonderful Postojna Caves, which was an unforgettable experience,going underground on a little train, then walking through the wonderful stalactite and stalagmite landscape.The formations were spectacular and we walked about 3 km underground. The Slovenian countryside is very pretty and green with rolling wooded hills.It is a tiny country with about 2 million people and 300,000 in Ljubljana.
Then we crossed the border onto Croatia and into three totally different landscapes. Tourism makes up at least 25% of Croatia's GDP.We had a spectacular drive along the very dry rocky sunburned coastline to Senj. The vegetation struggles to grow on the rocky soil, but the sea is clear and blue with gorgeous little coves and bays with people swimming and sunbathing.From Senj we drove inland through the province of Lica along a very windy road through pretty forested hill country up into the Gacka Valley , with supposedly the cleanest river in Europe.The coast is heavily populated, but inland is almost uninhabited and apparently good for biking and hiking. Also full of wildlife - deer, rabbits, wolves,foxes,squirrels, wild boar and even lynx.We then drove along a new inland motorway to Zadar, back on the coast through an amazing 5.7km double tunnel into the province of Dalmatia.
Zadar is a gorgeous little medieval town with beautiful Venetian architecture and a famous sea organ.It has quaint narrow little cobbled streets and is so full of history, dating back to Roman times.It was under Venetian domination for centuries,then Austro-Hungarian,and after WW1it was ruled by Italy and today it belongs to Croatia.
Tuesday 7 August 2012
Vienna again
Much cooler today,thank goodness. The concert last night was wonderful. It was held in one of the ornate opera houses, which was stunningly beautiful. I almost felt I was on a film set and the music was superb -well-loved Mozart from operas such as Don Giovanni, Figaro and The Magic Flute, with lovely baritone and soprano voices and a beautiful violin symphony. It was fun because the orchestra were all in period costume and the conductor was a real dag. He ended with the famous Strauss Radetsky March and he conducted us all clapping - softly, loudly, fast, slow etc. It was truly a night to remember.
Today was one of my real reasons for spending a day in Vienna - to see the lovely Lipizzaner stallions in training and what a treat it was. They are magnificent animals and the arena itself is also spectacular with its statuary and this afternoon I did a tour of the stables. They,too, are magnificent and spotlessly clean. Apparently there are 72 stallions and 22 riders in training at one time. There was just one girl rider this morning, but there are four.Next stop - Ljubljana.
Today was one of my real reasons for spending a day in Vienna - to see the lovely Lipizzaner stallions in training and what a treat it was. They are magnificent animals and the arena itself is also spectacular with its statuary and this afternoon I did a tour of the stables. They,too, are magnificent and spotlessly clean. Apparently there are 72 stallions and 22 riders in training at one time. There was just one girl rider this morning, but there are four.Next stop - Ljubljana.
Monday 6 August 2012
Vienna
Thank God for air conditioning. I arrived in Vienna to 36 degrees today, so I've bought a 24 hour ticket for the Hop- on Hop-off buses, as it is too jolly hot to walk in the heat! Was delighted to finally see the Hundertwasser Haus. I knew he built the Kerikeri toilets, but I didn't know that he died in NZ. The bus was cool and again a very good commentary pointing out the important spots. I didn't realize that the Prater covered such a huge area. I'm off to another concert tonight with the Vienna Mozart Orchestra. It sounds lovely, complete with renowned opera singers and soloists, all in magnificent historical costumes and wigs, to give the 18th century atmosphere. Tomorrow I've got tickets for a training session with the Spanish Riding School, so I'm not wasting a moment.
I have to say that I think that Prague. Is a far more attractive city than Vienna, but the Viennese have the style that is lacking in the people in the Czech Republic. Once again I have lucked onto a very central, and very stylish hotel right in the centre of the city. I can even walk to the Spanish Riding School from here. It was so nice to be able to communicate again, albeit in German. I was very proud of myself managing to catch the correct train by myself in Prague, then the correct underground in Vienna to my hotel. It certainly saves taxi fares.However, I've just 'fallen in' by ordering a kleiner Braune, which turned out to be a small coffee and not the beer I thought I was ordering!! Must get changed now for the concert.More tomorrow.
I have to say that I think that Prague. Is a far more attractive city than Vienna, but the Viennese have the style that is lacking in the people in the Czech Republic. Once again I have lucked onto a very central, and very stylish hotel right in the centre of the city. I can even walk to the Spanish Riding School from here. It was so nice to be able to communicate again, albeit in German. I was very proud of myself managing to catch the correct train by myself in Prague, then the correct underground in Vienna to my hotel. It certainly saves taxi fares.However, I've just 'fallen in' by ordering a kleiner Braune, which turned out to be a small coffee and not the beer I thought I was ordering!! Must get changed now for the concert.More tomorrow.
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